Gun-Kote Teflon Molybdenum Gun
bake-on finishes are
extremely durable coatings that are airburshed on to metal surfaces and then
oven cured at a high temperature. The advantages are its inherent
durability, lubricating properties and non-reflectivity. The drawbacks are a
limited selection of colors and that only metal parts can be coated and
cured due to the high temperatures involved.
Teflon/Moly Gun-Kote Pricing
Strip and finish typical
autoloader slide (e.g., Glock, Sig)
Silver Lightning Strike Cover Plate for Glock
Strip and finish 1911 or similar frame
Strip and finish entire 1911 or similar (all parts)
Small parts or custom work
bid on request
Teflon/Moly Gun-Kote Finishes
friction-reducing coating that lasts and lasts can now be applied to any
metal gun part. It is so tough and durable that once it is applied, the only
way to remove Gun-Kote is to abrasive blast the part. It is resistant to all
known gun solvents and thinners. Each coat is approximately .0004" thick so
Gun-Kote can be used on both internal and external parts where a
close-tolerance fit is required without having to worry about interference.
This makes Gun-Kote the perfect, maintenance-free coating for
handgun slides and frames, shotgun receivers and magazine tubes, rifle actions and bolts,
anywhere you need an ultra-thin, self-lubricating, permanent coating that protects and
wears like crazy.
Notes about Teflon/Moly GUN-KOTE
The Matte Black
finish looks great on Glock slides and all gun parts. The Gloss Black finish (in my
opinion) looks cheap, and is similar to the old Remington 22's with that lousy paint-on finish
they tried in the 60's. The Brushed Stainless looks great and I have coated
many Glock slides and complete 1911's with good results. The "Silver" is
actually more of a Battle Ship Gray (so you Navy pukes will love this one). The two shades of brown and the green
are for camouflage paint jobs.
This finish requires the
surface to be bead blasted down to the
white metal. It is painted on in several coats and then cured in an oven. It WILL NOT
adhere to polymer or plastic parts like Glock frames and the plastic will
not survive the curing process. It will adhere to carbon/moly steel or
stainless steel, and once it is heat cured the only way to get it off again
is to bead blast or grind it off.